When I was about 15 years old I started living with my Grandmother who was part "Blackfoot" Native American. One of the things she taught me was how to garden according to the moon/sun and how to plant, harvest and encourage the plants to grow strong. I remember planting fish heads under the roses and planting garlic and onions along the edges of the garden for pest control and how to sing to the plants to encourage them to grow. I call this traditional gardening but it may be classiffied as Organic, Native American or Biodynamic gardening. This natural way of gardening was reintroduced to me when I lived in South Korea and in Japan. In these countries, planting, gardening and harvesting have changed little over the last 1000 years. When I lived in South Korea I befriended several people including a Ginsing root doctor and a rice farmer and his family. From these people I learned how modern methods had been tried but that the old ways produced better crops. Traditional gardening to me is more the just the organic gardening movement; it is about planting and harvesting with the cycles of the moon and planets, in accordance with season and region. Traditional gardening to me just makes sense, and anyone who studies with me knows that herbalism and gardening is just common sense. This page will be dedicated to these topics. Some hard core vegan-organic people may disagree with me, but it is about using traditional gardening and farming methods.
Native American Farming
As I was taught it; planting and harvesting were practiced within the natural cycles. I remember my grandmother Annette explaining how the moon affected different plants and how to plant more then what was needed so that there would be enough to share with the other beings (plants and nature spirits) around us. She taught me that this was the natural cycle of the world and that if I planned on feeding the other animals and spirits that they would return the favor. I remember the one year I planted roses in the front bed and my grandmother and I went to the market to get whole fish prior to planting. Before she cooked the fish she thanked it for feeding us and saved the bones, skin and head for the garden. As I planted the rose bed, I put the fish parts in again thanking the fish as I asked it to nourish my garden. I remember that I had the most beautiful roses there (this is in South Florida where it is hard to grow roses). This also happened in her small vegetable and herb garden. Things were planted mostly during the full moon and harvested during the full. One of the other things she did in her garden was to sing or play music to it. She used to say that a sweet voice would produce sweet vegetables. I practice this to this day and often sing to or play my traditional flute to my multiple gardens.I know my neighbors look at me funny but they can't deny it when I give them a perfectly flavored and juicy 2 pound tomato or several pounds of sweet potatos (because there is no way that I can eat over 30 pounds of SP in 1 season). Another thing she did that to her was traditional was to leave a bit of food on occasion in the garden to feed the nature spirits. She often said that they protected the her the house and the plants from harm. I often used to go out the next day to collect the plate from the garden; when I was young I thought it was just the cats eating her food offerings, but as an adult I was blessed enough to meet my land's nature spirits in Minnesota and here in central Florida and I can say that the land spirits do appreciate foods, wine and honey as a gift and they do recipricate with protection from harm and fertile land.
Organic Gardening
In Organic gardening I use several techniques which mostly involes enriching the soil so that you have the perfect beginning to plant in. The goal with soil is to add enough organic matter so that your soil is rich and nutritious and eventually self sustaining. I will give you an example. In Minnesota the soil is good but has a very heavy clay base. My goal was to add things which would "lighten" the soil including peat moss and compost. In Florida my soil is mostly sand so I am adding compost, chicken manure, peat moss and left over clay from my pottery "habit". By adding to the soil to assist it, you help balance out irregularities or deficiencies in the soil pattern. Soil deficiencies are becoming more and more common as people over harvest or over use the soil without replenishing it. We as a country produce more food then we need but its QUALITY is poor. By adding to the soil prior to and during planting you help mother nature rebalance and as a result will get better quality vegtables and fruits.
I do use fertilizer but in modest doses. I use natural fertilizers that are "low and slow" which means that they have a low nitrogen componant but are slower to release nutrients. My fertilizer usually rates at 6-6-6, which gives me a slow but steady stream of nutrients for my soil. I use fish emulsion at least twice a year during the peak growing times but I also use a combination of herbs that I sprinkle on the ground to add mutrition. The combination I use is 1 pound of nettles, 1 pound of oatstraw, and 1 pound of kelp. I sprinke 2 cups on a bed sized 4'X 8' 3-4 a year as a soil additive. these herbs are high in trace minerals and when added enrich the soil so that it can produce incredible crops. Last year, doing this simple fertilization schedule I raised several 5 pound radishes and 2.5 pound tomatos.
I do use chicken compost from my free range/organic feed chickens. The natural by-product from my chickens goes into a seperate compost pile that ferments for about 3-6 months. At that time the poop has mellowed and is ready to add to my garden. I usually add the manure to the soil as I am preparing it for planting but I also make a tea by mixing the dried herbs up in a 5 gallon pail with 1 shovel full of chicken maure to sprinkle near (not directly on) the plants during the early stages of fruit/vegetable development. This gives them a boost and the end product is usually larger then expected with a fantastic flavor. What is nice about having my own poop producing chickens is that I know what they have been eating and I have control of when to use the finished compost. I do think that chicken and sheep manure is the best for adding to the garden but any type will do as long as it was collected in the wild or under humane conditions. I have used bat guano, seabird, horse and cow with mixed results depending on what they ate, how it was collected and how long the poop was sitting on the shelf before I bought it (and yes believe it or not, there is a shelf life for animal manure).
I also add Homeopathic cell salts to my soil once or twice a year and this is more biodynamic in nature but because it is a homeopathic medicine I will add it here. I use P&S Labratories "Bioplasma" which is a combination of all of the cell salts. To me this adds another layer of nutrition to the soil. I use about 5-6 tablets per gallon of water and sprinkle the plants directly. I have tried putting the pills directly in the soil but the plants tend to respond better to the cell salt infusion. I get these at Present Moment (see the links). One bottle is enough for me and my whole family (plant and human) for a year. The important thing is not to touch the tablets or they may be ineffective. I don't nesesarily agree with this homeopathic Gardening by the Moon and Astrology Gardening by the Moon and stars in accordance with nature’s own cycles has been practiced since ancient times as a way to assist man in creating a bountiful harvest. Ancient peoples followed not only the seasons, but also the phases of the Moon and the movement of the stars across the sky, and used this information to farm, breed animals, and store crops. These techniques are all but forgotten in modern farming, chemicals are often used as a substitute for older more natural techniques. Gardening by following the phases of the moon is simple and the phase of the moon can be easily determined by looking at the night sky. The astrological associations are a little harder to figure out, but can be determined by consulting an astrological calendar or astrological ephemeris. There are four basic moon phases: First quarter, Second quarter, Third quarter, and Fourth quarter. These phases can be determined by observing the Moon’s path across the night sky. The Sun rises in the East and sets in the West on a predictable cycle, as does the Moon. At the New Moon the Sun and the Moon rise close together in the East, causing the Earth to throw a shadow on the Moon. Each day the Moon rises approx. one hour later on the Earth’s rotation cycle allowing for an increase of the Sun’s light on the Moon’s face. So, at 2-3 days after the New Moon hits it’s zenith you will start to see a slight crescent; a few days later when the first half of the Moon’s face is illuminated the Moon is considered to be in it’s First quarter. From the First quarter on more of the Moon’s face is illuminated until it reaches its peak or the Full Moon (which is the Second quarter). After the Full Moon hits it’s zenith, the shadow slowly grows and when the Moon’s other half is illuminated it is considered to be in the Third quarter. The shadow then increases until the Moon is once again covered. This is considered to be the New Moon and is considered to be the Fourth quarter. From the zenith of the New Moon to the zenith of the Full Moon is called the “Waxing phase” and from the zenith of the Full Moon to the zenith of the New Moon is called the “Waning phase.” The current scientific theory on why planting according to the phase of the Moon works is based on water movement. The Moon controls water everywhere on this planet from the greatest ocean to the tiniest seed. The Sun and Moon affect these bodies of water by their magnetic pull. The theory is that during the Moon’s waxing or growing phase the water is pulled up through the ground and into the vascular channels of the plant causing an increase in leaf, flower, and fruit growth. In the waning phases the magnetic pull is decreased so the water settles in the roots and is either contained in the root crop or released into the ground through osmosis. One other theory that scientists commonly cite is that plants are genetically programmed to react to the Moon’s cycle, and that the gradual increase of the Moon’s light triggers better growth habits through a genetic preference. The general rules for planting by the moon are quite easy. Plant above ground crops when the moon is in it’s waxing phase and root crops during the Waning phase. This is important because when the moon is waxing plants develop stronger leaves and above ground systems. During the waxing Moon I would plant things like lettuce, beans, corn, Calendula, Lemon Balm, etc. Plants that require strong root systems should be planted when the moon is waning. This is the time I would plant root crops like: potatoes, onions, beets, garlic, etc. The same rules apply to harvesting your crops and pulling out weeds. I pull weeds during the waning part of the month in order to discourage their return. Most crops can be harvested according to the same guidelines. If you are harvesting above ground crops it is best to harvest them in the waxing phase unless you are looking for the fruit or vegetable to be very juicy. If juiciness is important you would want to wait until right after the Full Moon hits its peak, I do this for things like tomatoes tree fruit, and berries. If you are harvesting root crops it is best to harvest them during the waning Moon the flavor and nutrients are more concentrated and there is less of a problem with rot once stored. The fourth quarter can also be used for weeding, cultivation, soil preparation and starting compost. There is a whole other piece of this puzzle and this is planting and harvesting by the astrological signs. Every month for about 2.5 days the Moon stays in a particular astrological sign, this combined with following the phase of the moon seems to give the best results. Here is a short summery of the signs and their properties: Aries is dry and barren and good for pulling weeds, and harvesting. Taurus is fertile and is good for planting both root and leafy crops. Gemini is dry and is good for weeding, Cancer is considered the most fruitful of the signs, and is used in conjunction with planting, and seeding both root and leafy crops. Leo is the most barren of the signs, and should only be used for weeding, and cultivating the soil. Virgo is moist but not good for planting vegetables; it is better to plant vines and flowers in this sign. Libra is semi-fertile and is a good sign to plant root crops, and vines in. Scorpio is very fertile, almost as much as Cancer but it produces plants that are sturdier, so Scorpio is good for planting vines, flowers, and vegetables. Sagittarius is not very fertile but is good to plant hot or fiery crops such as: garlic, onions, horseradish, and chili peppers in. Capricorn is a semi-fertile sign and is good to plant root crops, bulbs, and pitted fruits in. Aquarius is a dry sign and is good for pulling weeds. Pisces is very fertile and is good for planting most root and leafy crops. Year Month Day Time Day of week 2008 Jan 22 13:36 Tue 2008 Feb 21 03:32 Thu 2008 Mar 21 18:41 Fri 2008 Apr 20 10:27 Sun 2008 May 20 02:13 Tue 2008 Jun 18 17:32 Wed 2008 Jul 18 08:00 Fri 2008 Aug 16 21:18 Sat 2008 Sep 15 09:15 Mon 2008 Oct 14 20:04 Tue 2008 Nov 13 06:19 Thu 2008 Dec 12 16:39 Fri Year Month Day Time Day of week 2009 Jan 11 03:28 Sun 2009 Feb 9 14:51 Mon 2009 Mar 11 02:40 Wed 2009 Apr 9 14:58 Thu 2009 May 9 04:03 Sat 2009 Jun 7 18:13 Sun 2009 Jul 7 09:23 Tue 2009 Aug 6 00:57 Thu 2009 Sep 4 16:05 Fri 2009 Oct 4 06:11 Sun 2009 Nov 2 19:15 Mon 2009 Dec 2 07:33 Wed 2009 Dec 31 19:15 Thu Year Month Day Time Day of week
thought pattern; I think they work regardless but I need to add the traditional education for accuracy's sake.
I have just started adding benificial bugs to my organic garden only because these Florida bugs are large, hungry and don't die in the deep freeze like in the northern winters.I have added ladybugs, lacewings, and praying mantis in order to balance out the crazy insects which can eat a plant to the ground in a matter of hours. An example in the "Lubber" grasshopper. It get up to 3 inches long and can destroy a large bush in hours if it finds it tasty. By adding natural preditor insects to the enviornment you can assist mother nature in protectign your crop. Like I said I don't mind sharing, I just don't like to lose everything.